Sushi Chef Jonathan McKinney of Wave Asian Bistro & Sushi delights in turning sushi into edible art. 

Jonathan learned his craft early in life from his dad John, the first Asian-American to own and operate local Japanese steakhouses in the area throughout the 90s.

During that time, young Jonathan slept in booths and did his homework at tables at Lampu in Mount Dora, Fuji in Summerfield and Keiko in Ocala. Later, he put his learned knife skills and cooking techniques to work for the family business.

After a stint in college, he missed the excitement of restaurant life and in 2009 returned to his dad’s fourth eatery, Kiku.

“I wasn’t thriving or feeling inspired in the university setting so I dropped out and went back to my place of comfort,” he says. “I realized that I thrive on the hustle and bustle of a restaurant.”

Jonathan gradually worked on his own concept and menu, using alternative methods to build sushi rolls and experiment with innovative, modern techniques to create tasty and photo-worthy dishes he hoped would change the landscape of the online sushi craze. 

“During that time, I was starting to notice the trend of food art online,” he says. “I wanted to be a part of the viral food culture and pioneer some sort of sushi movement, but my father hesitated to include my creations on his menu because he wasn’t ready for that.”

So, Jonathan took a leap of faith in 2017 and opened Wave in the heart of Mount Dora to prove it could be done and as an homage to his dad, who has since become a true believer. 

“My father is extremely proud of the rapid growth and success that Wave has garnered over the last few years, which is something that surpassed his wildest imagination,” Jonathan says. 

Social Media Mania

Jonathan’s girlfriend/partner and social media guru, Kelly Leech, came on board right away because she saw potential in the concept.

“We knew each other in high school, and I was inspired not only by the strong reputation of his father in the community but by the skills Jonathan had built over time,” she says.  

Kelly was fascinated by Jonathan’s vision and concept that started with Wave’s own sushi versions of donuts and burritos and expanded to include sushi burgers, pizza, tacos and hotdogs. The images of his creations were so enticing that Instagram took notice and published the photos on their platform.

Since then, Wave and its inventive dishes have garnered over 1.5 million followers across all social media platforms and Jonathan and his team have collaborated with Disney, USA Today, Foodbeast, Ripley’s Believe It or Not and other major media outlets.

Creative and Delicious

Fortunately, we can do more than admire the photos. Wave is open daily with an expansive menu with enough to entice anyone, even if sushi isn’t in your comfort zone. 

The atmosphere is playful as the walls are covered with hand-painted sea life and neon signs of sushi art. I knew we were in good hands because Jonathan was there butchering salmon right in front of us, which is delivered fresh daily along with whole tuna. 

Style photographers Nicole and Matthew joined me for an Asian feast made up of Wave ramen, bento box (chicken with fried rice, ginger salad, half California roll and two pork gyoza), imitation crab (krab) Rangoon, “mozzarella” sticks (Nicole’s favorite), a huge crunch wrap, sushi tacos (which Matthew dove straight in to) and yuzu crème brûlée. 

As a sushi nut, I think Jonathan’s take is so approachable because he deftly manipulates rice, nori (seaweed) and tempura batter to create a yummy crust. Since most people like fried food, the tempura inspires a familiar flavor to compliment the layers of seaweed salad, cool cucumbers, creamy shredded “krab” and spicy tuna, which blends for a balanced taste. 

Approximately 15 simple rolls and up to 30 specialty rolls round out the sushi menu. There are also a variety of Asian dishes to choose from, and most are kid-friendly. 

The menu also includes sake-based signature cocktails like The Great Gats-bee, The Mighty Mai Tai Bosstones, Hana Mariposa and Papa Don’t Peach. They have a formidable sake selection featuring Ozeki Hiro and Sho Chiko Bai.

Jonathan, who is just 33, has expanded with a fast-casual location in Maitland and hopes to continue to expand.

He’s making a name for himself by redefining how we perceive sushi, but Jonathan says starting out working beside his dad keeps him humble.

“I’m extremely lucky that I was able to learn about the restaurant business at such a young age,” he says. “I learned early that working hard on the things that you care about is the only way you can accomplish your goals.”

Photos: Matthew Gaulin and Nicole Hamel