Throughout my days of wine and roses, I was convinced that I’d tasted every type of alcoholic beverage on the planet. But during a recent visit to downtown Eustis, I realized the ancient elixir of mead had somehow eluded me.

This honey-based beverage is no longer a relic from medieval banquets in dusty storybooks. Mead is having a full-blown renaissance thanks to dedicated enthusiasts like TJ Lawrence, president of Pinesmoke Bee Company.

“It all started as a backyard beekeeping passion,” TJ says. “After years of ‘Ren’ faires and farmers markets, we’ve blossomed into a pretty distinctive and inviting gathering place here in the Ironblock Building.”

He’s being modest. Armed with nearly two decades of research and enough nerdy data to make any fermentation geek swoon, TJ has been ready to unleash this clean, gluten-free beverage on the public for years.

Alongside fellow beekeeper Jason Gajentan and head of events and marketing Audra Montgomery, TJ has helped build a devoted following through hive tours, hands-on workshops and handmade goods.

“We’re ready to start making our own mead now,” TJ says with palpable enthusiasm.

Part classroom, part taproom and full-on community hub, Pinesmoke is decked out with close-up images of bees, glass-etched honeycomb and a live hive.

Their honey ranges from seasonal to spicy, and the rotating menu features more than 20 meads, ciders and beers, including nonalcoholic options and flights.

Pinesmoke also supplies honey to Pisces Rising, The Deli Llama, Eden Abbey and other local restaurants.

“Visitors can sip small-batch meads, shop honey-based goods or take part in a range of events from candle-making to fermentation classes,” Audra says.

Future plans include a city-supported apiary, “Day in the Bee Yard” experiences and small plates to pair with all that golden goodness and a very smooth and sneaky buzz.

Photos: Nicole Hamel