Harry & the Natives has been one of the busiest and most talked-about restaurants in the area since opening last August.

The porch-style spot on Lake Okahumpka is almost always packed for lunch and dinner. It is clearly both a Villagers’ hangout and a visitor’s destination.

COO Scott Bianculli says he had long imagined opening a from-scratch establishment. When the stars aligned, he and partners Lance Smith and Anne and Harry MacArthur decided to utilize their decades of experience and shared philosophy.

“It begins in the kitchen,” Scott says. “Our vision is to take fresh ingredients in their purest form and then create the best possible dish.”

Harry & the Natives operates without a freezer or microwave, and every component is made in-house by Chef Henry Hodges and his team, a decision Scott says was intentional from the beginning.

Fish—often caught the day before—is delivered fresh daily, alongside fresh produce and Certified Angus Beef from trusted purveyors in Central Florida.

One of the restaurant’s most distinctive features is its cold prep room where salads and other chilled dishes are prepared in a refrigerated environment and delivered cold to the table, a detail that matters in Florida’s heat. 

The concept is all Scott’s. I’ve never witnessed anything like it in my 40 years working in restaurants, but he’s definitely onto something. Items from the cold prep room add a noticeable freshness to each plate.  

The menu was created by the partners, who collectively bring more than a century of restaurant experience. 

Chef Henry executes the menu and develops the daily specials and says the structure allows him to cook with confidence. 

“I’m just grateful that the partners trust me with their vision so I can share what I love to do,” he says.

Staff members have largely joined through word of mouth, drawn by the restaurant’s growing reputation as a positive place to work. Ownership maintains a daily presence, greeting guests, running food and listening to the community.

“Service is just as important as the food, and at least one of us is here every day to meet our guests and see what they think,” Scott says. “It’s a hands-on approach that we believe in.”

The casual vibe attracts locals, whether they’re stopping in after a round of golf or settling in to enjoy the view as the light changes over the lake. As evening approaches, Tiki torches are lit, and the resident gator “Okie” occasionally appears on the serene Lake Okahumpka backdrop.

Special event dinners begin filling up as soon as they are announced, and requests are already outgrowing the private room.

When Style’s Chief Photographer Nicole and I visited, it was a cold January day, but that didn’t prevent diners from arriving at 11:01 for lunch, a scene that, by multiple accounts, has been common since opening week.

The dishes were described to me as traditional American casual fare with a few special twists.

For example, the deviled eggs were creamy and savory, with a mustard-forward flavor and topped with a dusting of crushed pecans. The bacon was candied for an elevated finish.

The “Native” salad was fresh-from-the-fridge chilled, and the honey-Dijon dressing had just enough kick to enhance the simple ingredients. Lance’s idea to put cold chicken salad in a grilled sandwich was initially met with skepticism but has quickly become the top-selling dish. I think it’s genius.

If you have nut allergies, read the menu carefully, as pecans appear in several dishes, perhaps an ode to the Southern cooking the partners grew up with.

Chef Henry’s soups are scratch-made daily and have a rich depth of flavor that feels as though they have been simmering for days.

If the quality of the pork chop is any indication of the fresh fish and other proteins, I’m sold. The bone-in cut was prepared simply with in-house seasoning and grilled to perfection with a savory glaze and al dente seasonal vegetables.

Harry & the Natives offers traditional sides with one glorious exception—a dish Lance discovered by accident while in Hawaii—fresh pineapple tossed with li hing mui plum powder, a salty, tangy seasoning that sharpens the fruit’s natural sweetness and gives it a slightly sour finish. Superb.

The Lemon Ice Box Pie comes straight from a recipe book belonging to Lance’s mother Judy. Chef Henry treats it with care and respect. 

The Boozy Pineapple cocktail renewed Nicole’s desire to move back to Hawaii. The thoughtfully designed 60-seat bar renewed my faith in what a communal setting should be.

Everyone involved seems to be blown away by the reception they receive when visiting.

“It’s incredible how much love the people of The Villages have shown us,” Scott says. “We’re all natives. That’s what this is about. Food and fellowship.” 

Photos: Nicole Hamel