When Chet and Cindi Pando opened the Oyster Troff in Eustis back in 1998, their daughter Stephanie was just 8 years old and could barely see over the counter. Now she not only sees over the counter, she owns the whole bar.

Renamed “The Troff,” what started as a single oyster counter in a small local restaurant has grown into one of the most legendary raw bars in Florida. With three service stations under one roof, there’s room for dozens of seats to accommodate masses of seasoned shuckers.

“Back when we opened, we moved about 250 pounds of oysters a week,” Stephanie says. In 2014, that number hit 10,000 in a single week. Today it’s easily doubled, with millions of oysters having been plucked and shucked right in front of diners who come for the seafood and stay for the show.

Stephanie’s brother, Brian Clark, also grew up around the family business and put Eustis on the map when he won the U.S. National Oyster Shucking Championship in 2018 and went on to represent the country in Ireland. He’s world-ranked, lightning-fast and was named one of Style Magazine’s “40 Under 40” in 2023. He works in Tavares just down the road and provides friendly competition. 

A full-time teacher by day, Stephanie trusts her husband Ryan to help run things while she’s out. As GM, he does it all and particularly loves tweaking the already great recipes.

Cindi passed away earlier this year, but she lives in every corner of the restaurant. Her warmth echoes in the laughter of longtime regulars like “Three O’clock Charlie,” who shows up daily to feast and chat with the crew.

Friends and colleagues remember her as a “prayer warrior” and “immovable woman of faith” who brought joy and encouragement to everyone she met. 

Chet still pitches in, helping keep the family legacy going strong.

Full disclosure: I kind of begged for this assignment. The Troff has been on my radar for years, and I wasn’t about to miss my shot at slurping its legendary raw treasures.

While Nicole our chief photographer was set up for photos, I eyed each mollusk like a sea otter while Ryan shucked away. They were cold and refreshing and I downed 11 in under three minutes. Of course I saved one for Nicole, who went in unsure but became a fan. I owe her another trip.

My particular jam is to bury my oyster in lemon juice and raw horseradish to give my sinuses a wallop.

I learned that each oyster is a bit like a snowflake in that they are all different. Ryan says that each person has their own individual way to enjoy theirs.

“We have everything available for each oyster lover,” Ryan says. “It really depends on who you are and how you like it.” Horseradish with lemon? Hot sauce with garlic? In the end, how you dress yours is personal preference, but the quality and consistency of the oysters is very personal to the Nelsons.

“The oysters do matter,” Stephanie says. “We outsource them from all over depending on the season.”

After my embarrassing display, I dug into the fresh sushi-grade seared ahi and the Cajun grilled oysters, which were a cheesy, umami joy. The blackened redfish dish with potatoes was Nicole’s favorite. We both loved the sweet red onion beer-battered rings.

Even though I have a hot sauce allergy, I still went for the spicy shrimp boil with corn and andouille sausage. Nicole quietly nudged the plate down-counter to prevent any self-inflicted emergency. We finished with the clam chowder, which Ryan has fine-tuned by adding fresh chunks of clam and a bit more cream to the original recipe.

Complemented by a rotation of ice-cold craft beers and a full liquor bar, The Troff has built a reputation on freshness and consistency.

The drink list includes a line-up of specialty cocktails like the Tropical Storm, Coconut Groove and Ocean Water. There are rum buckets if you’re feeling beachy, and for the adventurous, the Old Smokey Flight. Of course, there are oyster shooters with vodka.

The staff is friendly and knows its stuff, especially when it comes to oysters. “With dozens of bar seats lining the space, diners get a front-row view of the action as oysters are shucked on the spot,” says Laurie Larson, who has been there for three years, serving, shucking and slinging drinks.

Beyond oysters, seafood and solid service, The Troff offers a down-to-earth vibe that’s equal parts laid-back and lively. Locals, snowbirds and curious first-timers all find a place at the bar. Awards line the wall and Bar Bingo takes over on Tuesdays and Thursdays, keeping the place as entertaining as it is delicious.

Yes, you’ll find seafood, beer and barstools, but you’ll also walk away feeling like you’re part of the Troff’s extended family . . . whether you slurped one oyster or 11.

Photos: Nicole Hamel